"Mere clothing is transformed into desirable fashion by the way it is represented in imagery. Fashion's Double examines how meanings are projected onto garments through their representation, whether in painting, photography, cinema or online fashion film, conveying identity and status, eliciting fascination and desire. With in-depth case studies including the film and photography of Nick Knight, Helmut Lang and Terry Richardson, film examples including Pret-a-Porter, music video 'Girl Panic' by Duran Duran and much more, the book analyses the interrelationship between clothing, identity, embodiment and self-representation. Accessibly written for students and scholars, Fashion's Double will appeal to anyone studying fashion, cultural studies, art theory and history, photography, sociology, and film"--
Introduction: Doubling -- Painting fashion : Winterhalter and Worth ; Academicians and impressionists ; John Singer Sargent's Madame X ; Fashion, painting and the fall of the old world order -- The model image: from illustration to photograph : The transition from graphic imagery to photography ; Edward Steichen and the birth of the fashion shoot ; Fashion photographers in the first half of the twentieth century : Adolph de Meyer; George Hoyningen-Huene and Horst; Cecil Beaton; Richard Avedon; Lee Miller ; After the Second World War -- The little black dress and Capitol couture : The little black dress ; Breakfast at Tiffany's ; That's entertainment: The hunger games and Capital couture -- Perverse utopias: Helmut Newton : Formalism in photography ; Woman doesn't exist ; Excess and Eros -- Music video, pornochic and retro-elegance : Pornostyle and the pornification of fashion ; Unwieldy fashion in representation ; Madonna's Blond ambition ; 'Girl panic' ; Gendering pornochic and SM style -- Fashion film, or the disappearing catwalk : Early days of fashion film ; Moving fashion ; The democratization of fashion ; Brothers of Arcadia: homotography, or the meeting of fashion film and pornochic -- Conclusion : Conditions of impossibility.