President's foreword / by Phillip King -- Preface and acknowledgments / by Thomas Krens -- Giorgio Armani: toward the mass dandy / by Germano Celant -- Private and public. Interview with Armani / by Ingrid Sischy -- Milan in the 1970s and 1980s / by Natalia Aspesi -- The Armani army / by Marshall Blonsky, with collaboration of Edmundo Desnoes -- Armani and Hollywood / by Hamish Bowles -- Selected garments / by Harold Koda -- Gender. Liberty, equality, sobriety / by Suzy Menkes -- On womenswear / by Franca Sozzani -- The menswear revolution / by Patrick McCarthy -- Androgyny: undoing gender / by Susan Cross -- The Armani look / by Catherine Perry -- Traditionalism: redoing gender / by Susan Cross -- Changing roles / by Susan Cross -- Selected garments / Harold Koda -- World culture. The sands of time: historicism and Orientalism in Armani's designs for women / by Caroline Rennolds Milbank --